Best Candle Wicks for Soy vs Beeswax (Tunneling, Soot & Throw)

Choosing the right candle wick is the difference between a clean, even burn and a smoky, tunneling mess. This guide compares soy vs beeswax, maps jar diameter → wick size, and shares a quick burn-test so you get strong hot throw with minimal soot.

Quick verdict (TL;DR)

• Soy burns cooler → often needs a slightly hotter candle wick than paraffin to avoid tunneling.

• Beeswax is denser → often needs an even hotter wick (or a size up) to reach a full melt pool.

• Start from the chart below, then burn-test 2–3 cycles. Trim to 5–6 mm before each burn.

Soy vs Beeswax—how they behave

• Soy wax: Smooth, slow melt, cooler flame; prone to tunneling if the candle wick is undersized or the first burn is too short.

• Beeswax: Higher melt point; can mushroom/soot if the candle wick is oversized, but needs heat to open the melt pool.

Quick size guide by jar inner diameter

These are starting points. Fragrance %, dye, additives, room temp, and jar shape change performance—always test.

Wooden wicks (single): 5–6 cm → 0.5″, 7–8 cm → 0.625″, 9–10 cm → 0.75″. For beeswax, go one size thicker.

Need help choosing a candle wick? Browse ECO, CD, LX, HTP, Wooden here: Candle Wicks – Cosmo Wholesale

Fragrance load ranges (hot throw vs soot)

• Soy: 6–10% typical. Start 7–8%; high loads can drown the flame → wick up one size if melt pool is weak.

• Beeswax: 3–6% typical. Natural aroma competes with FO; too much fragrance = smoke/soot → choose a hotter candle wick carefully and test.

• Essential oils: Be conservative; check IFRA; monitor wick for mushrooming.

Burn-test protocol (fast & reliable)

1. Wick + tab: Center the candle wick with a glue tab; use a holder to keep it straight.

2. Pour & cure: Pour per wax spec; cure 24–72 h for soy (follow your wax sheet for beeswax).

3. Trim: Start at 5–6 mm before the first burn.

4. First burn: 2–3 h; aim for a full melt pool touching jar edges (~1 cm deep).

5. Assess: After cool, check tunneling, soot lines, mushroom cap, and melt-pool depth.

6. Adjust: Tunneling? Wick up. Heavy soot/mushrooming? Wick down (and trim shorter).

7. Repeat: Confirm over 3 burns to lock the right candle wick size.

Troubleshooting (quick fixes)

• Tunneling / walls left: Wick up one size; extend first burn to 3–4 h.

• Soot / big mushroom: Wick down; trim to 4–5 mm; reduce fragrance %.

• Weak hot throw: Increase FO within safe range; wick up slightly; ensure full cure time.

• Overheating jar: Wick down and limit burn length; check jar heat rating.

Wick types—when to choose what

• ECO: Cotton flat-braid; stable in soy; clean burn; good all-round candle wick.

• CD: Hotter series for plant waxes; great for beeswax and larger jars.

• LX: Consistent flame; useful with dyes/tints.

• HTP: Paper-core stability; handles heavier fragrance loads.

• Wooden: Modern look/crackle; size up for beeswax; test with different thicknesses.

Pakistan setup tips

• Ambient heat: Hot rooms soften wax → an oversized candle wick may soot; test in the room you’ll burn in.

• Airflow: Fans/drafts cause leaning flames and sooting—test in a closed room.

• Supply: Keep 2 neighboring sizes for each wick family so you can adjust quickly.

FAQs

1) Which candle wick is best for soy?
Start with ECO 8–12 or CD 6–12 depending on jar ⌀, then burn-test.

2) Why does my candle tunnel?
Wick too small or first burn too short. Wick up and let the first burn run 2–3 h.

3) Why am I getting soot and mushrooming?
Wick likely oversized, too much fragrance, or long untrimmed wick. Wick down and trim to 4–5 mm.

4) Can I use wooden wicks with beeswax?
Yes—choose a thicker wooden wick and test; beeswax needs more heat.

5) How do fragrance loads affect the wick?
Higher loads can drown the flame; you may need a hotter candle wick or to reduce FO %.

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