- Beginner‑friendly, dependable: E‑Wax NF / Polawax (creamy lotions, wide pH, hot process).
- Natural/ECOCERT feel: Olivem® 1000 (velvety), Ritamulse™ SCG (light, acidic pH), Montanov® 68 / 202 (silky).
- Silicone‑like, ultra‑light gel‑creams: Aristoflex® AVC (cold‑process, low electrolyte), Pemulen™ TR‑2 (polymeric, elegant).
- Hair conditioners & silky skin creams: BTMS‑50 (conditioning, cationic).
Quick pick: Choose by texture + pH + actives. For a safe first lotion, start with E‑Wax NF; for a clean‑label vibe, try Olivem 1000 or Ritamulse SCG.
Table of Contents
- Why emulsifiers matter
- At‑a‑glance comparison table
- How to choose (by goal)
- Usage tips: stability, pH, and texture tuning
- Mini formulas (ready to scale)
- FAQs
- Internal links & resources
- Article schema
Why emulsifiers matter
Lotions are oil + water held together. The emulsifier is your “glue,” shaping stability, feel, slip, and shelf life. Pick the wrong one and you’ll get separation, soaping, or drag. Pick the right system and you’ll have a silky, stable emulsion with room for humectants, actives, and fragrance.
At‑a‑glance comparison table
| Emulsifier (trade/common) | INCI | Usage % | Process | pH window | Texture/feel | Pros | Watch‑outs |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| E‑Wax NF / Polawax | Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60 (varies by supplier) | 4–6% | Hot (70–75°C) | ~4–9 | Classic creamy lotion | Forgiving, great for beginners | Not “natural‑certified”; heavier feel at high oil % |
| Olivem® 1000 | Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate | 3–8% | Hot (70–75°C) | ~4.5–7.5 | Velvety, cushiony | Natural‑leaning, elegant skin feel | Can soap if under‑oiled/under‑sheared |
| Ritamulse™ SCG (Emulsimulse) | Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate | 4–6% | Hot | ~4.5–6.5 | Light, powdery, quick | ECOCERT; stable at acidic pH; great for AHA/BHA | Needs acidic pH; may thin above pH 6.5 |
| Montanov® 68 | Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside | 4–6% | Hot | ~4–8 | Silky, elegant | Natural‑leaning, good stability | Needs co‑emollient for glide |
| Montanov® 202 | Arachidyl/Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside | 1–3% | Hot | ~4–8 | Very light, satin | Low‑use rate, great sensory | Can be thin; pair with fatty alcohol |
| BTMS‑50 (conditioning) | Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl/Butylene Glycol | 2–6% | Hot | ~4–6.5 | Silky, detangling | Conditioning for skin & hair | Cationic—avoid anionic thickeners; not clear “natural” |
| Aristoflex® AVC | Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer | 0.5–1.2% | Cold‑process | ~4–7 | Weightless gel‑cream | Instant fluff, no heat | Salt/electrolyte sensitive; avoid high ion actives |
| Pemulen™ TR‑2 | Acrylates/C10‑30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer | 0.1–0.4% | Cold/Hot (neutralize) | ~4–8 | Silky serum‑lotion | Great oil loading with light feel | Needs neutralizer; learn curve |
Notes: Trade blends vary by supplier—always check your COA/TDS. For leave‑on face care, keep fragrance low (≤0.5%) and verify compatibility with actives.
How to choose (by goal)
- Feather‑light face gel‑cream (minimal oil, quick absorb): Aristoflex AVC or Pemulen TR‑2.
- Everyday body lotion (easy win): E‑Wax NF → creamy, stable, beginner‑friendly.
- Clean‑label/Natural positioning: Olivem 1000, Ritamulse SCG, Montanov 68/202.
- AHA body lotion (low pH 4.2–5.0): Ritamulse SCG plays nicely with acids.
- Hair conditioner / silky skin cream: BTMS‑50 (cationic, detangling).
- High oil but light touch: Pemulen TR‑2 allows higher oil with elegant feel.
Usage tips: stability, pH, and texture tuning
- Heat phases to ~70–75°C, combine, high‑shear for 1–3 minutes (stick blender), then slow mix while cooling.
- Fatty alcohols (cetyl/cetearyl 1–3%) increase viscosity and stability.
- Humectants: Glycerin 3–5%, Propanediol 2–4%, Sodium PCA 0.2–0.5%.
- Electrolyte caution with Aristoflex; keep NaCl, niacinamide+zinc, and ionic actives low.
- Preservation: For water‑based lotions, use a broad‑spectrum system (per supplier), typical 0.5–1.2%. Verify challenge/shelf tests.
- pH targets: Face creams 5.0–5.8; AHA lotions 3.8–4.8 (Ritamulse); Hair conditioners 4.0–5.5 (BTMS). Always measure and adjust.
Mini formulas (ready to scale)
Educational only. Follow cosmetic GMP. Preserve water‑based products and validate pH/stability.
1) Everyday Body Lotion (Beginner‑Friendly, E‑Wax NF)
Phase A (Water) – 100% batch
- Deionized Water — 74.8%
- Glycerin — 3%
- Sodium PCA — 0.3%
Phase B (Oil)
- Sweet Almond Oil — 12%
- E‑Wax NF — 5%
- Cetyl Alcohol — 2%
- Vitamin E (mixed tocopherols) — 0.3%
Phase C (Cool‑down)
- Preservative (per supplier) — 1%
- Fragrance or none — 0.6%
- Chelator (Disodium EDTA) — 0.3%
Procedure: Heat A & B to 72°C, combine, high‑shear 2 min, cool to 45°C, add C, adjust pH to ~5.5.
Why it works: Reliable emulsion with plush glide and good stability.
2) Velvet Face Cream (Olivem 1000 + Lightweight Oils)
Phase A
- Deionized Water — 66.2%
- Propanediol — 3%
- Panthenol (DL) — 0.5%
Phase B
- Jojoba Oil — 8%
- Squalane — 5%
- Olivem® 1000 — 4%
- Cetearyl Alcohol — 2%
- Shea Butter — 2%
- Vitamin E — 0.3%
Phase C
- Niacinamide — 4%
- Preservative — 1%
- Fragrance (optional) — 0.5%
- Chelator — 0.5%
- Water (QS to 100%)
Procedure: Emulsify hot, cool, add C ≤40°C. Adjust pH 5.2–5.6.
Why it works: Olivem gives velvety cushion, niacinamide brightens at skin‑friendly pH.
3) AHA Body Lotion (Ritamulse SCG)
Phase A
- Deionized Water — 60%
- Lactic Acid 90% — 5% (adjust final pH 4.0–4.5)
- Glycerin — 4%
Phase B
- Sunflower Oil (HO) — 10%
- Ritamulse™ SCG — 5%
- Cetearyl Alcohol — 2%
- Vitamin E — 0.3%
Phase C
- Preservative — 1%
- Fragrance (optional) — 0.5%
- Water (QS to 100%)
Procedure: Emulsify hot, cool, add C ≤40°C. Verify pH 4.2–4.5.
Why it works: Ritamulse is comfortable at acidic pH; lactic acid smooths texture.
4) Silky Hair & Body Conditioner (BTMS‑50)
Phase A
- Deionized Water — 73%
- Glycerin — 3%
Phase B
- BTMS‑50 — 5%
- Cetyl Alcohol — 2%
- Argan Oil — 5%
- Dimethicone 350 (optional) — 1%
Phase C
- Preservative — 1%
- Fragrance — 0.5%
- Lactic Acid (to pH 4.5–5.0)
Procedure: Heat, emulsify, cool, adjust pH.
Why it works: Cationic phase boosts slip, detangling, and soft skin feel.
FAQs
Q1: What is the absolute best emulsifier for lotion?
There isn’t a single “best”—choose based on texture, pH, oil load, and actives. For first‑timers, E‑Wax NF is the most forgiving.
Q2: Do I need co‑emulsifiers or thickeners?
Often yes. Cetyl/Cetearyl Alcohol (1–3%) improves viscosity/feel. Polymeric thickeners (Carbomer, Sepimax, HEC) can add body in gel‑creams.
Q3: Can I cold‑process lotions?
Yes with Aristoflex AVC, Sepiplus®/Simulgel®, or Pemulen (neutralized). Always follow the supplier’s TDS.
Q4: Why does my lotion “soap” or turn white on rub‑in?
High fatty alcohol, low emollients, or certain emulsifiers (e.g., some olive‑based) can soap. Balance oil phase and shear.
Q5: How do I keep natural lotions stable?
Mind pH (4.8–5.6), use antioxidants, and choose robust preservatives compatible with your system. Conduct stability and micro testing.
Final verdict
There’s no one “best emulsifier for lotion.” For easy wins, use E‑Wax NF. For a natural, elegant finish, try Olivem 1000/Ritamulse SCG. For airy gel‑creams, go Aristoflex or Pemulen. For conditioning creams or hair care, BTMS‑50 is king.